Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Revolution! of the frisbee disc

Besides my job, the biggest part of my life these days is frisbee. Almost every weekend since I've arrived I've made it out of town for a weekend of practice and partying with team Korea. Finally the first big event is approaching. Jeju Island Gnarly 9's tournament is one month away. I'm looking forward to it so much.

My team this year kicks ass. We have four members of last years championship team: Dray, a prototypical ultimate player with lanky limbs and throws from every release point; Tori, a semi-pro tri-athlete who will not slow down as the day grows long; Candacee, another veteran with sure hands and all the throws; and DB, a squirrley jitterbug who can put it deep or run to the house himself. In addition we have Junseok, the most athletic of the native Korean players he came in 3rd place in a national martial arts competition; Changmin, he's fast as lightning and he has added a lot of variety to his throws over the last year; Beth, the first play I saw her make was when she made a lay-out block of a throw of mine; Chase, another experienced handler who knows how to get open; and myself.

We'll get together next weekend in Ulsan for a warmup tournament and some drinking practice. woohoo

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Revolution!

The ramifications of the school shake-up I reported on a few weeks ago are still unfolding. I am reticent to disclose full details and my unabridged opinions on a public blog so let me limit myself to the following statement. If you found my blog searching for information about my school, I hope this satisfies your curiosity, and if you know me and want the full monty, email me and I'll tell you all the details (some are juicy). The following is my honest assessment of the state of the school:

The school's founder (the president of the university) has a vision for the school to be a place for children to grow into independent thinkers ready to enter the world theater through an education that is substantially different from the standard Korean high school experience. I think it is an admirable vision, a goal worth working towards, and one that would require a staff of exceptional teachers, especially while the school is still growing. I'm happy to state my opinion that my fellow teachers can stand toe to toe with an all star team of the best teachers from my highschool career.

Unfortunately we had been saddled with an ineffective leader. Well, I'm happy to say that the principal has been fired and as a result I am now very optimistic about the future of the school. He opportunistically showed his true colors in an unambiguous way at the right time and the staff's complaints were given serious consideration. Again, I realize that I'm leaving out all the nuances for the sake of public relations, but I at least feel comfortable enough to say that the drama of it all unfolding gave me a buzz.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

School Shake up

We got a little shock to start the school week: Mr. B. the geometry, econ, and computers teacher quit suddenly on Tuesday morning (recall Mon was a holiday). He had worked the first month having not yet renewed his contract which had expired over the winter break. I guess there was the pretense of a gentleman's agreement between teacher and administrator to iron things out in the early part of the semester. Instead they blew up.

I mentioned that most of the staff is not happy with the principal; here's one reason: Last semester the social studies teacher had the students do a current events project. They were to select an important topic of their choice in current events and present a report on it, the report should include an interview with some adult. One student thought to investigate the gay marriage debate. It seems to me a nice idea for the assignment, but I wonder if the student realized, when deciding to interview our principal, that he was a raging homophobe. Seriously, he published a book last month entitled "The Gay Deception." The principal was so outraged by the very idea of the project that he raised a ruckus as far up as the president of the university, and instituted a new policy for this semester that teachers must have all materials outside of the text book approved before the start of the semester (patently absurd for current events projects to say the least). The teacher was issued a warning which, by the letter of the contract, put her job security in jeopardy.
Back when the new principal first arrived, he asked the teachers for copies of their resumes. After the current events project he told the administrator that the social studies teacher should be fired because she lied on her resume. His reason: she claimed to have worked one year at a high school in Texas, but had only worked 9 months. Well, that's 9 months Sep to June, one school year. Ridiculous to try to use this as a weapon against the teacher.

So during the contract negotiations Mr. B was trying to rewrite the contract to basically ensure that his job security could not in any way be jeopardized by the principal. But it is hard to write such a contract that can reasonably deal with him legitimately going rouge. So it was a stalemate. The teacher had some commitment to the students and was willing to work per diem so as to not abandon them, but things were clearly unstable. Well, early this weekend the teacher and his infant baby were sick, the principal was badgering him to conform to the scheduling doctrine of false precision that I mention in an earlier post, and threatening to "write him up" for failure to comply. Finally the cumulative stress must have broke the camel's back so the teacher snapped, chewed out the principal, and quit. After all, despite his compassion for the students, he had a sweet job offer in the Phillipines on the back burner and a family to think about.

The upshot - I get an extra Geometry class to teach and a $500 a month raise, plus a cheap used motorcycle ($350 125cc daelim), and lose a new friend. Most of the rest of the teachers' resolve is galvanized "by the end of my contract either the principal or I am gone." A lot of the students are upset, I wonder if this will effect their continued enrollment, I'm certainly getting dagger eyes from some of my new geometry students

Let's see how things develop from here.

Hadong Weekend

It was a good weekend for a trip. Monday March 1st is a Korean national holiday commemorating some massacre by the Japanese during an independence protest. So it was a three day weekend. The only downside was that I had to fight off and party through a mild cold.

Magnifying the festiveness was the first full moon of the new lunar year. It seems the country people put extra zeal into their pagan rituals celebrating such events. In a rice field near Hadong there was a bbq buffet free for all to come and enjoy. Grilled pork (same part of the pig that bacon comes from, but uncured) and some of the best mushrooms I've ever had, soup and kimchi, as well as all the soju and green tea you cared to drink. There were some traditional drum dancers to liven the mood, then, at the strike of moonrise, they set light to a gigantic 10m tall bamboo bonfire. It's a fun way to start the night.

It was great to see all my old friends from town. Saturday I hung out with David, the English guy. Not much has changed for him, but he is planning on moving to Busan at the end of his contract in May. His 3 1/2 year old son is as cute as ever, but at that age where he has learned just enough language that you wish he hadn't sometimes.

I spent the rest of the weekend hanging out with my Korean friends. Jaesik and Sooyeon got married in December and sold their sandwhich shop. She's pregnant already, but maybe there are some complications: her doctor told her to stay home and rest. I'm not clear what's going on, but I didn't get to see too much of them. I heard through the grapevine that also newly married and pregnant is a girl who, at the time, I felt unfortunate to have met so close to the end of my contract last summer ..

Hanging out (and drinking excessively) with my Korean buddies was certainly fun. I got a much better feel for my current language skills as well. For the most part one on one conversations would be conducted in a mix of Korean and English, but in a larger group I could follow the flow, if not all the details, of the Korean conversation but I found myself chiming in in English more and more as time went on. I want to think that this was just to maintain the tempo of the conversation, but maybe I was also suffering language fatigue trying to keep up, and maybe I new having to listen to a little English would slow them down a bit. Anyway, overall it was one of those things that lets you feel proud of how far you've come while still just making you realize how far you've yet to go.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Early updates

I think I'd given the impression that I was excited to coach the basketball team at the school. You can imagine that my excitement was tempered a bit when I learned that it is not really an inter-school competition, more of just an activity to get the kids some exercise. So I am far from heartbroken that Zimmern took over the basketball instead of me. Instead the school has instituted a couple new programs: Now I'm getting paid overtime to coach the new Tennis and Ultimate Frisbee teams for the school!

Through just a couple practices frisbee is going well. We've got about a dozen kids (almost a third of the school!) interested to play. A couple are picking up the fundamentals of throwing rather quickly. It's fun to watch, but it is also interesting to see how these kids who have more academic discipline than the average set of American kids have far less athletic discipline when it comes to running drills, following instructions, hustling, etc.

Not only did they start the new activity, but for tennis the school bought a handful of high quality rackets to lend out to the beginners. Of the 12 kids who want to play, about 8 can make contact with the ball at least 50% of the time, and about 3 have a decent chance of keeping a rally going for more than 3 strokes. Nevertheless, it's kind of fun to act like a coach and feed them balls to drill. They are low enough on the learning curve that there should be a heartening amount of improvement over the semester.
The best looking strokes come from one of the senior girls who took some lessons about 5 years ago, but hasn't played since. She hits the ball crisply and a little flat, but without much regard for whether it is going in or not. Incidentally, this is the same girl who has finished Algebra 2 and geometry, but wants to go back to the first semester of Algebra 1 for her last semester. Technically she needs one more math credit, and has not taken this class at this school, so she is eligible to take the course for credit, but isn't it a little strange to regress over two years in the course sequence instead of taking pre-calculus?

I could talk at length about this, and other scheduling related issues, and how it is related to the continued teacher / administration strife in the school, but please wait a bit for me to get the rest of the information and final outcomes.

That Algebra class has been a little chaotic because a couple students (including our two Peruvians who finally add a little more diversity to the Koreans plus one French mix) were admitted a little after the semester started. They were placed in Algebra 1 by default, but most found it beneath their level and moved out, so the kids kept coming and going. And even of those who stayed, for many the class is more of an "English of Math" class than a math class.

The rest of the classes are going fine I guess. Maybe the kids think that my classes are a little hard .. well I'm not spoon-feeding them layup questions, but I'm not going outside of the curriculum either. Actually the restriction of being told what I have to cover cramps my style a bit, but I can at least talk about whatever random tangential topic I feel like whenever we are keeping up to the schedule.

Last night I administered the AMC math contest. This is round one of the competition that leads to the international math olympiad. When we did this in high school Jarod and I were the only kids to get to round two for our junior and senior years; it is a pretty tough test. Well, I advertised with the promise of big rewards, but only got 4 participants. I think they all did respectably, but no one will be going on to round 2. Maybe these kids are quite sharp, but just haven't been exposed to this type of problem enough.

Finally, outside of school, I had another fun weekend in Seoul playing and hanging out with the frisbee folk up there. I also learned how to ride a motorcycle - I think I can get one for cheap and have a good alternative to the bus for weekend trips when the weather is nice. The feeling of speed and control and intimacy with the road is something I knew I would like ahead of time. But as a locomotion purist I will have to make a cutoff - under 15 miles should be muscle driven bike pistons, over is optional depending on how much of a hurry I'm in.

This weekend I'm going back to Hadong to meet some of the friends I made last year. I'm really excited for the trip!

Sunday, February 14, 2010

My students

First off, let me tell you my daily schedule - first class begins 8:30, and I go straight through till lunch at noon then have just one afternoon class. Starting next week, basketball is twice a week for an hour and a half starting around 4:00, and since we were encouraged to propose an evening course (for which we get overtime pay), I created a class called "mathematics for competition and recreation" which will begin with preparation for the American High School Math Competition, and after that turn into a workshop on applied discrete mathematics, i.e. games and gambling.

It is a more work than my job last year, but frankly that was a sinecure to the extent of being unenviable. Perhaps I am just still filled with the energy of starting something new, but I should say that in the first week of classes I could hardly even read fiction without my thoughts being interrupted by ideas on how to teach these kids math and science.

While it's only been one week since I first met my students, so far I'm quite pleased. Compared to the standard Korean high schoolers I met last year I can say that the English level of the worst of these is about as good as the best of them. In fact, with my primary social circle being my fellow teachers (all Yanks besides one Canuck), and the students being so English that some are more comfortable speaking it over Korean, the only reason I know I'm living abroad is the lack of delicious beer in my fridge.

So far, I can't say anything against the kids. They are mostly attentive and well-behaved in class. Of course, that might just be a first week phenomenon. I'll let you know more about personality and academic qualities when I get some more feedback, but for now my level of dread is fairly low.

The most notable student is Young-woo. This because he was granted admission despite still being an 8th grader. He is by a huge margin the least mature student physically, and has about the lowest English level as well. I'm a little worried how he will cope as a boarding student. But I saw him playing basketball with some of the other boys after school one day, so at least it looks like they will be inclusive and treat him like a younger brother a bit.

The final introduction I should make is of new science teacher, who cleared his visa and arrived just in time for the first day of class. He's a pretty interesting character, a Canadian, and very well traveled, having learned yoga from some north Indian masters, and herbal medicine from southern African shamans. But in fact, if I tell you our new teacher is Andrew Zimmern, the fib will leave you with a pretty good idea of the fellow. Yes, besides world travel it seems food is one of his passions. My favorite quote so far, "My most memorable exotic food so far is whale meat. It is so obviously whale. Like if you weren't told what the meat was, when you put it in your mouth you would immediately think that's whale!"

Friday, February 12, 2010

Frisbee Season

One very pleasant surprise from last year, and source of anticipation for my return, was the ultimate frisbee scene in Korea. You've read here about some of the big international and smaller local ones I took part in last year; this year the schedule is just as packed and the level of excitement among the players in the country seems even higher. Indeed, a couple of the more dedicated players have set up google groups and organized practices with the ultimate goal of peaking for the Shanghai tourney in early June.

This fits in nicely with my own priorities. Approaching 30 years old, I'm starting to have the existential crisis of wondering if I am too old to ever again be in the best shape of my life. At 25 I could ride my bike 100 miles from the ocean to the peak on Mt Arrowhead without and special planning, but last year I had to quit running 22 miles into a marathon! Actually, more important than the extra motivation to get into top form, I'm just happy to be able to play some competitive ultimate on a regular basis.

Now that I live only a couple hours (and less than $10 by bus) from Seoul, I can, and will, go up there any weekend that I don't have anything better to do, and there will be a high level, high intensity frisbee practice or pickup game waiting for me. I tried this out last week. From my apartment - 5 min walk to bus station, 10 minute wait for bus, 2 1/2 hour ride, 20 min subway - to the field was really not bad at all. It was a cold day and the tundra was frozen, but I got a warm feeling from seeing some friends who I hadn't seen since August, and we were sprinting around to stay warm besides.

Afterwards we went out for a very tasty, but not very filling Indian dinner. Here we also got a taste of this strange modern world. During the conversation a scene from Conan the Barbarian came up: "What is best in life?" asked a warlord. "The open steppe, a swift horse beneath you, and a falcon on your arm," answered one warrior. "Yes, that is good, but what is best?" Conan knew the answer: "To crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and to hear the lamentations of their women!" Not a minute after we orally relived this great scene, 'Dre had found it on his iphone wifi, plugged in a phone size projector, and there it was, in true crisp color and sound projected on the restaurant wall.


I should be up there again right now, but this weekend is Lunar new year and there are 36 million cars on the road in Korea. The 2 hour drive is expected to take 7 today, and it is snowing anyway. So I'm staying home and will explore some more Jeonju instead.

Friday, February 5, 2010

First Impressions: Living Situation

Jeonju, a city of about 600,000, is fairly close to the west coast (maybe a good day trip on the bike), about halfway up. This puts me about two and half hours south of Seoul, and less than two hours to Daejeon, so weekend trips should be even easier this year.

I haven't explored Jeonju extensively yet. I'm living on the grounds of Jeonju university. There are about 11,000 regular students, but it is still recess so the campus is not bustling yet. It's a nice enough campus, plenty of fields and picnic tables scattered around, but it is on the outskirts of town. Apparently, the area around is in the process of being rapidly built up, but there is still a buffer zone of a kilometer or so where there is not much happening. But I hear lots of good things about the city proper so I'm looking forward to getting a bike and checking it out.

My apartment is in the university 'guest house,' and a lot of my fellow teachers live here as well. It's condition is a pleasant surprise. Very modern and clean looking and nicely appointed. The bathroom is a dramatic improvement over last year including a giant shower head built for circus elephants. The kitchen area is smaller, with just a mini fridge, but there are some full size fridges and a big dinning table in a common room. I've also got a nice and private little patio, tall ceilings, good heating and insulation, and AC for the summer. Maybe I'll throw some pictures on the web some day.

Best part: no bugs!
worst part: I miss my spider friends

Thursday, February 4, 2010

First Impressions: The Job (edit)

My new job is at a small and fairly new private high school. To be specific, the school is entering the second half of it's 4th year, and its second year being accredited by US curriculum standards. The school is strictly Western style, i.e. all classes are in English, and we can wear our shoes indoors. There are about 40 students over the four years, skewed a little to the younger side. Almost all of them are Korean born and raised, but with at least some international travel, and enough English skills to pass the entrance exam. Actually the students don't arrive until next week; I've heard nothing but good things from the other teachers, so I am quite anxious to meet them.

I will teach Algebra, Pre-calc, and Chemistry. Apparently, I'm replacing a math teacher whose contract was not re-newed due to 'lack of passion'. There is a second new teacher - an English teacher left for a government job - but the other new guy is stuck in Vancouver waiting for the Korean embassy to process his visa! The rest of the staff is small enough that I shall mention each of them.

J__, J____ - is the administrator. The school is a project of Jeonju University, and Mr. Jeon is our conduit to the upper powers, as well as handling the business side of our school. He's a nice guy, picked me up from the bus stop when I arrived and took me shopping. His English is about equal to the better of the English teachers I worked with last year.
The only things I can say against him is to relate a story which indicates that he may suffer from a characteristically Korean brand of irrational stubbornness.

Apparently the school awards 50% scholarship to the top student of each grade. Well, there was a mixup in the grades last semester and the scholarship was awarded to the wrong student. The top student pursued the investigation and discovered the error. She and her mom were upset and considering switching schools. Now, ours is a growing school, we need our top students and the reputation they will bring us by gaining admittance to top quality colleges. Doesn't it seem obvious that the correct action is to immediately apologize for the mistake and offer the student the same scholarship? Instead Jason simply apologized, then after they said there were changing schools he offered a scholarship of lesser value. It was already too late. From what I've heard of this student it was a sad loss.

B____, J__ - teaches math, computers, and econ. He's friendly and sincere and looks a little like Kevin Nealon. I ran into him on the afternoon I arrived here, and his family invited me to join in their trip to a museum, mountain park, and dinner. He also has a super cute nine month old baby.

D_____, A_____ - teaches music, and, begrudgingly, health (you'll find out why later). She's enthusiastic and energetic. She's into bicycles, so I'll have a friend to help me shop and ride around with. Also, her roommate used to live in Daejeon and play frisbee with my friends out there.

B___, S_____ - Teaches history. Like the rest, she seems a very dedicated and passionate teacher. The other teachers say that although her classes are perhaps the toughest, the students seem to like her the best. That's a difficult balancing act, although as I recall a certain Mr. Thomas pulled the same trick during my high school days.

Y__, J___ - Another math teacher. She's a little quiet, but very helpful for all the questions I have. She also runs a public service venture with a local orphanage that the students can help out with.

H____, B_____ - Art teacher. She seems sweet, is there a dark side lurking? A lot of the students' art work is hanging on walls, or lying around the school building, and some of it is actually quite impressive.

A___, T__ - English teacher and principal. This middle aged Texan is the elephant in the room. He started just last semester, taking over from a very well liked principal. My first impression of this guy is that he is probably a pretty good ESL teacher, but is, to put it nicely, heavy handed as a manager. The counts against him: 1. He makes scheduling decisions that seem at best arbitrary, and at worst demonstrably flawed. 2. He requires a level of paperwork that yields a false precision and is one of the bureaucratic hallmarks of a narrow mind. 3. When questioned, he can ignore viable suggestions, questions, and alternative; and/or fail to provide adequate rationale for his policy. 4. As I guess you can infer by now, he simply speaks down to people sometimes. 5. He is an overly conservative Christian. Look for his books on Amazon and check out the one that is not about learning English. The text he selected for health class preaches abstinence 95% and has just one small sidebar about condoms and how they are not completely reliable. Another instance where this shone forth was with an extended dress-code war he had with Ms. B___, insisting that she wear shirts that cover up to the neck line. Eventually J___ told her: do your best to satisfy him, but what you wear is fine so just ignore his complaints.

Actually, if I didn't trust the testimony of the other teachers more than him based on my judgment of competence and character, I could justify all his decisions (at least the ones I've seen in person). And there is a very good chance that we can all get through the semester shrugging off any of his bullshit and dealing with our own business.

This school has so much going for it. I don't want you to get a negative impression because there happened to be more to say about one guy. Every story needs a villain. I'm actually more curious than concerned to see how things turn out now.

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Colin in Korea Version 2.0!

Hello world,

I'm back in Korea, so I reckon I ought resurrect my blog. New year, new rules:
1. I'm not gonna advertise the re-launch, so probably only those who had me on rss feed will be aware at first: Friends, it is your job to spread the word.
2. More feedback requested, please. I appreciate anyone who even takes the interest to read, and was flattered by some of the things you told me in person regarding my un-edited babbling. But if I am to retain interest in this project a second time around, it will be because the communication is less of a one-way street. So if you can spare 5 min to read a post, I think it is not too much to ask you to, every now and then, hit the comment button and type out whatever comes to mind.

The first genuine post is shortly forthcoming; I'll talk about my first impressions about my new city and job etc. I already have a lot to say. I'll probably drop some highlights from my care-free months in the states sometime soon as well.

Friday, September 25, 2009

Going home

I'm sitting in Incheon airport's free internet lounge, so this will be my last blog post (and it will be short because I'm boarding in 20 min) written in Korea .. until I come back! I'm not 100% sure that I will, it is tempting, and I'll keep my eye open for a good deal while I look for stuff to do in America as well.

It's been an incredible year, I don't have the time to reflect on it deeply here, but there may be one more post in the near future with some parting shots.

My last week here was packed with goodbyes - friends, students, co-workers. Although I don't like the awkwardness of goodbyes, it's also sentimental in a good way to feel that I'll be missed. I guess I won't go into the details of my sayonara's, but I will add one more: Farewell to my readers: thanks for sticking with me through the year, but it is time to say goodbye to Colin the blogger, and welcome home to Colin the homeless man. My immediate plan upon arrival is to go to a wedding. Then bum around LA for a while, if I don't find a worthwhile job within a few weeks I'm heading to the SF bay area, then NYC at the end of Oct / early Nov. These are the places with the highest concentration of y'all readers of mine, so I hope I'll be able to couch surf a couple days at a time until I find a job, but if nothing pans out by mid-Nov. I'll visit my parents in Myrtle Beach then head back to Korea for next semester's university gigs.

Well, time to get on the plane; see some of you real soon.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Another idyllic day in Korea (twist ending)

Here's a brief description of one of my recent weekend days

After a lazy start to the morning I decided to take a bike ride out to the green tea farm cultivated by my buddy the monk. It's about a 90 minute ride along the scenic river then steeply up into the mountains. The day turned into a bit of a scorcher ~90 degrees, so I was happy to stop at a villiage on the way back to sip some sweet iced rice based drink out of a dried gourd in the shade of a traditional open air market.
Back home I visited my friend who works in a sandwhich shop. Since it was so hot I asked him about swimming in the river. "I don't know, it's pretty dangerous. Every year people die."
"Really?"
"Yes, this summer a middle school student drowned."
Of course, this only strengthened my resolve.
So around 6 o'clock I head down to the river bank. We have a peaceful pine forest park, and some tennis courts a little further down the bike trial that runs along the river, and the river itself has a wide sandy bank; it would make for a nice beach if it was on the ocean.
But before I can take a dip I'm sidetracked by a group of Koreans (strangers) at a picnic table calling me over. For them it is exciting to talk to a foreigner, and for me it is fun to have a conversation almost entirely in Korean. Of course the conversation wasn't too deep, a bunch of random nonsense, but I suppose the same could be said for most conversations between 1st language users. Another similarity between this conversation and a generic one between strangers is that it was fueled by booze and thus plenty entertaining. I can't tell if it was some kind of soju cocktail, or maybe a fermented fruit juice, but it was sweet and strong whatever it was we were drinking.
Anyway, after an hour or two the party broke up, and although it was dark by now it was still hot and I was still looking forward to that swim. The water was glorious, it was shallow, calm, and just the right temperature. I really felt peaceful seeing the mountains surrounding my town lit up by the moonlight and reflected in the smooth ripples of the water in which I swam; the quiet stillness broken only by the occasional splash of a jumping fish, or murmer of conversation from the park on the banks. At length, I emerged and walked up stream to retrieve my bag.
I found it surrounded by policemen! Apparently it is against the rules to swim at night. If this was Orange County California I would now be facing handcuffs and a $100+ fine, but with the good men of Hadong police force it was a simple, "We thought you were dead. Please don't swim at night." And I head home for a well earned night's rest.

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Scotland trip report part III: after Edinburgh

After the better part of a week in Edinburgh it was time to visit some of the more laid back places in Scotland. So my parents, aunt and uncle and I loaded up the cars and headed out for Oban on the Western coast. The trip across was serene and very scenic. Some people enjoy traveling to meet interesting and stimulating people of ancient cultures, and kill them. That can be nice, but I really enjoy seeing the different textures of earth.

Oban is a quaint little fishing village with a harbor, a whiskey distillery, and not much else. Except of a little masonry folly on the hill that looks a bit like a miniature colleseum from outside. Aparently a local banker commissioned its construction during a period of unemployment. Nice guy.

We took the scenic route back across the country. We drove up past the Nevis range then up the west coast of loch Ness. No monster sightings, except for the beast in the 58 inch kilt throwing stones at Drumnadrochets highland games. The games themselves were disappointing, poorly attended and organized.



The last portion of the drive was across the Cairngormes - almost unpopulated purple mountain highlands (purple from the blooming heather which covers the treeless landscape).

This was a very relaxing vacation for me. Lots of good scottish food beer and a little whiskey. and reconnecting with family. My parents commented that it was gratifying to them that their children, now grown up, voluntarily choose to spend vacation time with their parents (myself in Scotland coming not too long after a trip through some of the parks of Utah that was joing by my brother and sister). Well, it is gratifying to me to be lucky enough to have family worth spending my vacation time with. Getting a couple rounds of golf out of the deal is a nice bonus as well.

The week at my folk's timeshare was dominated by golf. We played



Cullen Bay - a unique course on the north coast, the seat of Scotland. It was right on the beach where a cliff and some rock formations made for some almost cartoonish holes. Also surreal was the wind whipping through the rocks. Cullen is famous as the home of Cullen skink, a potato seafood chowder, it's delicious.



Aboyne, Ballater, and Tarland - nice courses. I don't have a whole lot to say about them.



Braemar - A most distinctively Scottish course. Nestled in the highland mountains it is beautiful and frustrating.

Finally it was time to get back to Korea to finish the last month of my contract. It took three days to travel what with 2 stopovers and a delay -> missed connection -> night in a posh heathrow adjacent hotel paid by the airline.

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Scotland trip report Part II: Edinburgh

I think Edingburgh's Fringe festival is something you have to see yourself to really understand what it is like, but I will do my best to convey my experiences. First the setting: Edinburgh is a beautiful city, very old, and very Scottish. The castle on the edge of the cliff dominates the town. The whole city is made of stone and easily walkable. During the Fringe festival some streets are closed to traffic and street performers come out to play. Some are musicians, most are jugglers / circus stunt type stuff. Many are marginally skilled at best - if you've seen me juggle, I'm a couple months practice away from the lower tier of performers here. Also if you stop to see some guy's trick, you'll probably have to wait through 20 minutes of crowd coaxing build-up. Yet the highest qualities guys are really good, and regardless it creates a unique atmosphere for just walking down the street.

The indoors shows are the main reason to go to the Fringe. There are hundreds of fairly cheap (often free) shows going on all day long for a month, so below is the list of shows I saw along with brief commentary.

Outside of the entertainment I had a good time in Edinburough. I got to see my parents for the first time in over a year, and my aunt and uncle for the first time in several more. I got reintroduced to greasy western cuisine, and I was loving it. I stayed in a backpackers which was not so entertaining as my Japan ski lodge, but I did have the pleasure of sharing the room with a young Korean lass whom I was able to take out on the town and impress with my (childish) command of her native tongue.

1. Forgetable comedy show - on my first night, since I was alone and the show wasn't sold out, I was offered a free ticket (8 pound value) to a comedy show. The guy had jokes and songs but most were referencing British pop culture from the past year. So they mostly went over my head, but the crowd seemed to dig it.



2. "Freestyle Standup" - a free show featuring a couple different comics. These guys were pretty hilarious, and quite daring with dirty jokes directed at the audience.



3. Doug's one man show - this was a depressing experience. I went to the show because I needed to kill some time and it was free. I was shocked to find that altough the venue was a very classy looking pub, I was the only guy in attendance! I couldn't walk out at this point, and I still expected the best, but the guy was a train wreck. He did some one man sketches that mostly fell flat on the audience (of one)



4. Literary pub tour - Edinburough has been home to a vast array of wordsmiths from Robert Burns to Robert Louis Stevenson. The pub tour was hosted by actors playing an academic and a drunken sot who had a battle of wits using literary quotations and history to discuss the lifestyles and inspirations of Scotlands best writers. It was a lively exchange that took us through history and also plenty of Edinburough's best watering holes. A good mix of performance and down time to talk with my fellow tourgoers.



5. Richard Feynman is my Hero - a few scientifically influenced standups. Funny enough, although the venue was oppressivly hot.



6. Rebel Cell - This was one of the best shows I saw. The show was performed by a couple rappers. The premise was that in the near future England has become totalitarian - the govt has merged with the major corporations - one of the main characters is a figurehead of a rebelious movement. Whether or not the premise is cliched is a non-issue in the face of the tight lyrics these guys have constructed. They also display freestlye skills crafting rhymes from audience suggestions.



7. Some long form improv show - halfway decent improv. I don't have much to say about it, apart from to say it was a troupe only marginally less talented than various shows I've seen my brother perform in. If you're reading you should look into coming out one summer!



8. One-man drama - an interesting show, the man took us through the drama he faced being the son of a con-artist / compulsive liar of a mother. He seemlessly shifted between characters with abundant talent. I only wish he spent more time talking about his mother's many grifts instead of the heartbreak it caused his family.



9. Circe - This was a bunch of incredible gymnasts dancing interpretavely. They demonstrated poses requiring incredible strength, such as the man who let a woman dance upon his outstretched arms. It was a very impressive display



10. Topping and Butch - a duo of gay comedians. Very blue comedy, and very funny. Again some cultural references that went over my head, but enough timeless humor to keep me chuckling in the mean while.



11. Death of the Samurai - the last show I saw and maybe the strangest. The show was high octane! It was billed as a Japanese manga interpretation of a story inspired by Shakespeare. To give this production justice I would need an entire post for a review, so let me just say that the energy of the cast, costumes, soundtrack, and broken english / japanese dialog combined for an unforgetable and exhilirating time.

Scotland trip report Part I: Korean Prequel

Actually my vacation started a week before I left for Scotland. I spent one beatiful weekend on the beach on Namhae island, just a 90 min drive from home. I went with my Korean friends from town, and in fact may have been the only foreigner on the beach. It was so crowded! a majority of beachgoers got yellow innertubes to float on, and the ocean was like a bowl of cherrios. There was seriously a 1km long, 50m wide swath where you couldn't swim without bumping into someone. It was a fun day, we played in the surf, had a bbq on a portable gas grill, threw some frisbee and just enjoyed ourselves.

After a half week of rain and tennis (on alternate days) it was time to leave town. First stop Suwon, where another former Smaug teammate, Raj "The Bus", was in town on business. We donated some money to the military via poker, then got really drunk at a bar that served mixed drinks in galvanized tin buckets. It was good to be able to catch up with a friend I haven't seen in a few years.

Next day I was off to Seoul to start the day with a little frisbee. As always it was nice to let the plastic fly. I had to play barefoot because I didn't want to bring my cleats to Scotland, but the grass was luscious. It was hot and humid (had been all month) so I was really looking forward to wearing a sweater in Scotland the next week. That night we had a classic party night in Itaewon. In the back of my mind I knew this might be the last time I see a lot of my K frisbee friends, so I went all out and had a great time.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Cognitive dissonance

, or more particularly, the rationalization one does to oneself in order to reduce dissonance, is a pervasive and insidious mental bugbear. A good recent example is SC Gov Sanford reconciling the dissonance between his Christian belief that adultery is a sin (and that sinners should not be held in esteem) and his ambition / pride in being a political leader, with the comparison of himself to some biblical leader (was it Abraham, or David or ??) who is mandated to keep office despite his faults. Not all examples are so hilarious or obvious, but you should still search your own mind for instances of dissonance. I do so, but the problem is sometimes not recognizing that dissonance exists but rather determining which conclusions are genuine and which are mere rationalization.



When I was a grad student I was committed to finishing my PhD. I follow the credo of "finish what you started" and I was having a good life at the time, so there is no dissonance there, but I helped maintain my enthusiasm for math with the idea of being a career academic. Indeed, in my last year I applied for positions to continue my math career at top level post-doc/assnt prof. jobs. Was this job search the result of rebellion against the dissonance of having spent 6 years on a career path that I didn't really want to continue down for the long term? Having failed to land my dream job, and by now having had a bit of space and time to reflect on matter, I realize math was a worthwhile project, but ultimately not something I have enough passion for to do for the rest of my life. .. or is that conclusion just the result of the dissonance between my belief that I can do anything I really want yet did not get one of those top jobs?



That may remain an unsolved question, but I am fairly certain of the following: While I don't want to be a career English teacher in Korea, part of the reason I took this job was to reflect on such issues. Luckily, it's also a great place to live, and I think it would only continue to get better as I become more integrated into the culture, so I have no prejudice against coming back for another short term contract. But the job is not really challenging enough, and I can't convince myself that it is a noble or worthwhile enough endeavor to devote a significant portion of my life towards.

I struggled with different ways to express myself here, so I'll just state the plain facts for now: I've decided that to be happy a man needs to get something done, and to get something done a man needs a big picture, long term goal to devote himself to. There are several candidates for the next major worldwide crisis, I guess everyone who has the luxury of relative wealth and talent should pick one and devote himself to some long term preventative strategy. So I decided to work in the solar energy industry.

I have a decent background in materials science to start on this path, but might need additional training before I can find the position that's right for me. I've been searching for jobs to no avail these last couple months. If these trends continue after I return to America, there is a good chance my future plans will look like this - couple months jaunting around usa / SE asia; another semester teaching english in Korea; a year getting another degree at the European School of Solar Engineering in Sweden starting next August.

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Korean Miracle

This is the term used to describe Korea's remarkable transformation from being one of the world's poorest countries for a decade after their war to being one of the "Asian Tigers" a G20 nation. These days the country is so opulent that they run air conditioners at school at full blast with the doors and windows wide open. And the kids are getting fat ..

Well, we all like to make fun of the parents and grandparents who enjoy spinning yarns about how tough it was in their day. "I had to walk to school 2 miles in the snow, up hill both ways." "Every night for dinner we had a bowl of cold gravel, and then got whipped with the belt ... if we were lucky!" My own father talks about having to have pumped water from a well. but let me share some stories from my co-teachers who grew up in the 70's in Korea. One was so cronically hungry that her parents gave her booze to fill her stomach and put her to sleep as a 10 year old, and the other remembers an annual tradition from early spring when the winter stores were spent, but the new growth wasn't harvestable. Her parents would send her out to the forest with a sharp stone to peel and eat nutritious bark from the evergreen trees.

Stories like these gave me something to think about.

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Daegu pub golf

A week and a half ago I went back to Daegu for Sean's going away party. A pub crawl wasn't good enough for him, so we had to play a round of pub golf. This consists of a pre-appointed drink in each of 9 different bars. Your score is the number of strokes (or sips) it takes to finish your drink. We visited some bars with unique specialities along the way. One was "billibowl" a combination of billiards and bowling - you shoot the pool ball down the alley towards miniature pins, it's pretty fun. The only drink I had a hard time finnishing in one chug was the ice beer. This is a regular pint of beer served in a mug of solid ice. The fun part is that after you finish you can throw the mug at a wall and possibly win a free beer if you hit a target. Overall it was a fun night.

Golf Champion

Yesterday I went to Bugok Country Club to cheer on my co-teachers son as he won the province's elementary student championship. This skinny 10 year old has a swing like butter, and smoked the competition shooting 75-73 from the red tees of a championship golf course nestled into the Korean mountains. He came within inches of holing out for eagle from 100 yards on the final hole, and beat his nearest competitor by over 10 strokes. Aparently he is about #10 in the nation for his age group.

I also saw the national high school girls champion play. She had a swagger about her that did not abate even as she accepted the 2nd place trophy having been beaten out by a middle school girl playing above her league.

Hadong Cool Summer

Korea likes to have short English slogans for public events or press campaigns, such as the tourism board adopting "Sparkling Korea", and my home town's "Cool Summer." Somehow this July seems to have been at least 5 degrees cooler than last year, I guess because it was so much more cloudy and rainy this year. But the rainy season seems to have ended, and just in time for a little festival we had last weekend.

Events included a critical mass style tour of the town on Saturday. A pack of 125 bicycles in a town of 40,000 is not a bad ratio - I suppose it is equivalent to LA having a 5,000 member ride. That night there was a concert headlining some Korean that my students went nuts over, followed by a pretty decent fireworks display. The highlight Sunday occured in a little pond (about 100 square meters of knee deep water) they had dug into the sandy beach. They dumped about 100 3-4 pound fish in there, then we all piled in and tried to catch them with our bare hands. Other events included beach soccer tournament, and jetski pulled tube-rides.